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Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance

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A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain ho A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Includes 52 practical training exercises designed to advance technique, detailed anatomical illustrations that explain climbing physiology and an 85-minute DVD that shows concepts in action.


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A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain ho A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Includes 52 practical training exercises designed to advance technique, detailed anatomical illustrations that explain climbing physiology and an 85-minute DVD that shows concepts in action.

30 review for Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance

  1. 4 out of 5

    Kiri

    This is a must-read for any rock climber desiring to advance his/her climbing skills. The author lays out a program that builds on basic (yet necessary) skills and introduces concepts that many climbers may not have ever thought about. Although I have not yet practiced the skills in a deliberate fashion, just having read the book has given my climbing a boost. The stuff about body positioning, using the legs to begin movement, and controlling the center of gravity is very useful. I would have li This is a must-read for any rock climber desiring to advance his/her climbing skills. The author lays out a program that builds on basic (yet necessary) skills and introduces concepts that many climbers may not have ever thought about. Although I have not yet practiced the skills in a deliberate fashion, just having read the book has given my climbing a boost. The stuff about body positioning, using the legs to begin movement, and controlling the center of gravity is very useful. I would have liked a longer chapter about the mental game, but as a friend of mine said, that's what the book "The Rock Warrior's Way" is for.

  2. 5 out of 5

    lehaleha

    Awesome book. Just reading gives you +0.5 grade (if you are below 5.11+). Reading attentively gives +1. And, finally, if you really understood some bits - it will boost you up to +1.5. %)

  3. 5 out of 5

    Peter House

    The Self-Coached Climber is a thorough and extensive book with a rich variety of practical exercises and drills for climbers. In addition, the authors include facts and reference peer-reviewed studies as they progress through each chapter. This raised my confidence that what was being shared wasn’t hearsay or purposive but rather, the extensively studied and confirmed in the field. And if the authors broached a topic on the edge of our understanding, such as the utility of campus boards and syst The Self-Coached Climber is a thorough and extensive book with a rich variety of practical exercises and drills for climbers. In addition, the authors include facts and reference peer-reviewed studies as they progress through each chapter. This raised my confidence that what was being shared wasn’t hearsay or purposive but rather, the extensively studied and confirmed in the field. And if the authors broached a topic on the edge of our understanding, such as the utility of campus boards and system walls in training, they said exactly that. The book includes sample training plans and a training DVD. I expect this book, now that I’ve finished it, to turn into a reference I consult time and time again as my climbing competency, and my needs, change.

  4. 5 out of 5

    Karen

    This book was recommended by a climbing friend, and I can see why. Coming from a dance-heavy background, the balance-based approach the authors take is easy to follow and understand, and is encouraging for new climbers who have minimal upper body strength. I'll be implementing at least most of the exercises as soon as I can! This book was recommended by a climbing friend, and I can see why. Coming from a dance-heavy background, the balance-based approach the authors take is easy to follow and understand, and is encouraging for new climbers who have minimal upper body strength. I'll be implementing at least most of the exercises as soon as I can!

  5. 5 out of 5

    Alexios

    No mention of any crack climbing technique in the entire book. 3 *'s because of the mental advice and training/pyramids and exercises. Still would not recommend to any but the most novice. No mention of any crack climbing technique in the entire book. 3 *'s because of the mental advice and training/pyramids and exercises. Still would not recommend to any but the most novice.

  6. 4 out of 5

    Rasoul Emadi

    too hard

  7. 4 out of 5

    Todd

    Essential guide to self improvement

  8. 5 out of 5

    Angela Corcoran

    the exercises really helped me become a more mindful and motivated climber.

  9. 5 out of 5

    Ryan

    Like most technique and training books, the worth is in the utility of the exercises and how effective they are. This book presents a model of climbing movement that is both technical in it's treatment of physiology and practical in a relatively simple model of balance and efficiency of motion. First the author describes what he considers the main components of climbing, beginning from the simple concepts of balance, force, space, and time. From this beginning he increasingly becomes more specifi Like most technique and training books, the worth is in the utility of the exercises and how effective they are. This book presents a model of climbing movement that is both technical in it's treatment of physiology and practical in a relatively simple model of balance and efficiency of motion. First the author describes what he considers the main components of climbing, beginning from the simple concepts of balance, force, space, and time. From this beginning he increasingly becomes more specific, leading to a discussion of specific movements a climber will preform on the rock. His main tool for visualizing climbing motion is the climbers center of gravity relative to a "base of support" formed by the other contact points with the wall. To the degree you can keep you center of gravity low, and base of support large, you will feel increased stability and less demand on the hands to pull your body into balance. The base of support metaphor is pretty good, and does suggest the forces acting on a climber. What makes the model practical is that it can be felt by a climber by paying attention to the direction of force on their body and thus learn to precisely that control of force to move in the direction they want as efficiently as possible. The book presents specific activities a climber can to do become more aware of their movement. Further activities for training as also discussed. Overall I'd very much recommend this as a climbing technique book. Also try to get the DVD, to help visualize the content.

  10. 4 out of 5

    Rory Armstrong

    A really good training book. I've read Dave Mcleod's 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes which is also good. However, it is more a book for someone who's in a rut and needs motivation. This book however excels at giving pratical advise on how a climber can improve there training. This is done through more than 30 activities that focus on all aspects of training from movement skills, endurance (both anerobic and aerobic), strength, and power. The authors also offer a method of constructin A really good training book. I've read Dave Mcleod's 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes which is also good. However, it is more a book for someone who's in a rut and needs motivation. This book however excels at giving pratical advise on how a climber can improve there training. This is done through more than 30 activities that focus on all aspects of training from movement skills, endurance (both anerobic and aerobic), strength, and power. The authors also offer a method of constructing a basis of current conditioning and schedule for training that. The writing is well researched and well written. I can feel the knowledge of the authors and the authority of there ideas. Diffently a keeper to reference and great for climber looking for useful activities for individual weaknesses they've discovered but still wondering how to correct them as there is bound to be something in here to assist in that! Very recommeneded.

  11. 4 out of 5

    Jake McCrary

    This book is full of great training advice. The book contains various drills to improve all facets of your climbing; movement, footwork, mental, emotional, anaerobic and aerobic systems. With training frequency suggestions and suggested schedules this book tells you everything you'd need to know to improve your climbing technique. I'm hoping to take some of what this book suggests and apply it to the time I'm able to spend climbing. I'll also be paying more attention and recording how I feel whil This book is full of great training advice. The book contains various drills to improve all facets of your climbing; movement, footwork, mental, emotional, anaerobic and aerobic systems. With training frequency suggestions and suggested schedules this book tells you everything you'd need to know to improve your climbing technique. I'm hoping to take some of what this book suggests and apply it to the time I'm able to spend climbing. I'll also be paying more attention and recording how I feel while climbing and what type of routes I'm working on in order to try to identify weaknesses and strengths. I'd recommend this book to people who are serious about wanting to dedicate time to improving their climbing. If all goes as planned I expect that I'll be referring back to this book over and over again over the next few months.

  12. 4 out of 5

    Tomek

    I rate this book 5 stars not for myself, but for others. In my opinion, if you are only going to read a single book on training for climbing, this is the one you should read. Hague and Hunter clearly explain the physiological principles of movement; balance; and strength, power, and endurance. They then layout specific exercises that will help you improve those skills. They even delve into mental training and developing a holistic training program. There are more specialized books which explain I rate this book 5 stars not for myself, but for others. In my opinion, if you are only going to read a single book on training for climbing, this is the one you should read. Hague and Hunter clearly explain the physiological principles of movement; balance; and strength, power, and endurance. They then layout specific exercises that will help you improve those skills. They even delve into mental training and developing a holistic training program. There are more specialized books which explain certain concepts more fully (eg RCTM for physical training and Maximum Climbing for mental training), but the authors of SCC do a perfectly adequate job for most beginners. Furthermore, advanced climbers can also benefit from this book, as the first section on movement and balance is invaluable and quite unique.

  13. 4 out of 5

    Motus

    Just like the title says: "Self-coached climber". If you're a climber who wants to improve his climbing game, yet have no-one to tech you how to actually climb better (yes climbing gyms are full of jerks), then this book is for you. It has everything from explaining every climbing move, describing the situation when to use them, and drills to make those moves your second nature. Then it steps up a notch teaching you how to send harder routes, and then gives you training program depending on the Just like the title says: "Self-coached climber". If you're a climber who wants to improve his climbing game, yet have no-one to tech you how to actually climb better (yes climbing gyms are full of jerks), then this book is for you. It has everything from explaining every climbing move, describing the situation when to use them, and drills to make those moves your second nature. Then it steps up a notch teaching you how to send harder routes, and then gives you training program depending on the grade you wish to climb. Plus it has a DVD which explains in even more detail how to do each move and drill. Well worth your money! I strongly recommend it.

  14. 5 out of 5

    Grzesiek Gorzkiewicz

    Mój pierwszy poradnik wspinaczkowy. Wydaje się dosyć kompleksowy, jest mowa i o technice, i o sile, i o głowie. Mam tylko wrażenie, że dużo podstaw już mnie nie dotyczy, a wiele pięknych planów treningowych jest nierobialnych przez gościa który nie może poświęcić 4 godzin 4 razy w tygodniu. Mimo to i tak fajnie pomaga zrozumieć swoje braki i czuję że po powrocie w lutym uda mi sie zbudować ładny plan na kilka rodzajów wytrzymałości. Napewno będę wracał do tej ksiażki. No i muszę przemyśleć swoje Mój pierwszy poradnik wspinaczkowy. Wydaje się dosyć kompleksowy, jest mowa i o technice, i o sile, i o głowie. Mam tylko wrażenie, że dużo podstaw już mnie nie dotyczy, a wiele pięknych planów treningowych jest nierobialnych przez gościa który nie może poświęcić 4 godzin 4 razy w tygodniu. Mimo to i tak fajnie pomaga zrozumieć swoje braki i czuję że po powrocie w lutym uda mi sie zbudować ładny plan na kilka rodzajów wytrzymałości. Napewno będę wracał do tej ksiażki. No i muszę przemyśleć swoje cele długoterminowe.

  15. 5 out of 5

    Miloš

    If you're even remotely serious about climbing you should get it. It has tons of practical and detailed technical information. One review I read here said that it's hard to read for pleasure because it's so technical and it's exactly right but it serves as a fantastic reference. If you're even remotely serious about climbing you should get it. It has tons of practical and detailed technical information. One review I read here said that it's hard to read for pleasure because it's so technical and it's exactly right but it serves as a fantastic reference.

  16. 5 out of 5

    Hiroshi

    enlightening perspective and approach to rock climbing that emphasizes balance, movement, and initiation centers. after climbing for 1.5 years, this is the perfect read. everything makes sense, a good deal has yet to be learned or perfected, and bad habits can be (hopefully) ironed out.

  17. 4 out of 5

    Thomas

    Best book I've read when it comes to technique. Lots of great exercises and some good input for your training. However, if you are looking for strength training, power training and/or training programs I would look elsewhere. Best book I've read when it comes to technique. Lots of great exercises and some good input for your training. However, if you are looking for strength training, power training and/or training programs I would look elsewhere.

  18. 5 out of 5

    Aleksey Polukeyev

    The book has proven itself to be very useful in understanding the trajectory of learning involved in climbing. The text supports being mindful with your body and the way you should apply it.

  19. 5 out of 5

    Kenneth Miller

    Has some useful information, a god complement to having a real coach for at least a handful of sessions.

  20. 5 out of 5

    Bernadette

    It's almost like a textbook on the physiology and psychology behind climbing...good for climbers who want to take it to the next level. It's almost like a textbook on the physiology and psychology behind climbing...good for climbers who want to take it to the next level.

  21. 5 out of 5

    Sam Beal

    I was able to cherry-pick some advice I felt applied to me. Really enjoyed the sections on Balance, and the science behind ATP and ADP.

  22. 5 out of 5

    Sophia

    This is the perfect book for folks who want to mindfully get to the next levels in climbing through dedicated and intentional practice.

  23. 5 out of 5

    Anna

    The best climbing book I've come across. Really good exercises to try out and techniques to keep in mind when in the gym or at the crag. Constantly referencing it. The best climbing book I've come across. Really good exercises to try out and techniques to keep in mind when in the gym or at the crag. Constantly referencing it.

  24. 4 out of 5

    Natasha

    Good book, but kind of tough to read for pleasure because it's so technical...It does have good training and overall climbing tips... Good book, but kind of tough to read for pleasure because it's so technical...It does have good training and overall climbing tips...

  25. 4 out of 5

    William

  26. 5 out of 5

    Neill Tumulac

  27. 4 out of 5

    David

  28. 4 out of 5

    Gjoe

  29. 4 out of 5

    Etienne Moreau

  30. 4 out of 5

    Tom Oakin

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